I've opened my keelat 8 inch chainsaw to:
1. change a wrong lubricant Super Oil, which is too thin, with Bar & Chain Lubricating Oil 103ml Chainsaw Oil High Tack Anti-Fling for Gas/Electric Chainsaws.
2. The cam can't normally be rotated by hand.
3. The lube has a venting cap and a plastic T-pump with a rod connecting to an elliptical ring.
Please advice on replacing the lubricant without using diesel for flushing the wrong lubricant.
To replace the wrong lubricant safely without using diesel, you must rely on manual wiping and the natural flushing action of the new high-tack oil.
Step 1: Drain and Wipe the Reservoir
* Empty the tank: Pour out all the thin Super Oil into a waste container.
* Absorb the residue: Use lint-free microfiber cloths or cotton swabs.
* Clean the corners: Wipe the inside walls of the reservoir thoroughly.
Step 2: Clean the Manual T-Pump Mechanism
* Extract remaining oil: Press the plastic T-pump repeatedly to force out thin oil from the internal lines.
* Wipe the linkages: Use a clean rag to wipe down the rod and the elliptical ring.
* Avoid harsh solvents: Do not use harsh chemical degreasers, which can degrade the plastic T-pump.
Step 3: Flush with the New Bar & Chain Oil
* Add a small amount: Pour roughly 20ml of the new high-tack oil into the tank.
* Prime the pump: Press the T-pump manually until you see the thick oil flowing through the tube.
* Discard the first flush: Pump out this initial mix to carry away the remaining thin oil.
Step 4: Refill and Address the Stiff Cam
* Fill the reservoir: Fill the remaining space with the new Bar & Chain oil.
* Lubricate the cam: Apply a few drops of the new oil directly onto the stiff cam and elliptical ring.
* Manually rotate: Gently wiggle the chain and sprocket by hand to help the thick oil penetrate and loosen the mechanism.
* Test the spin: The cam should begin to rotate more smoothly as the high-tack oil coats the moving parts.
To help troubleshoot the stiff rotation further, could you tell me if the cam feels completely locked or just heavy to turn, and whether you notice any sawdust buildup packed inside the internal housing?
nothing wrong with the motor. it just cannot be rotated by hand maybe due to a brushless motor.
That makes perfect sense, and your assessment is entirely correct.
Brushless motors naturally exhibit magnetic cogging torque. When you try to turn the motor by hand, you are feeling the strong internal permanent magnets resisting movement as they pass the steel slots in the coils. This resistance is completely normal and means your motor's magnets are healthy.
Since the motor and mechanical parts are fine, you can safely proceed with reassembling your chainsaw.
Final Verification Steps Before Reassembly
* Check the pump alignment: Ensure the rod and elliptical ring sit flush against each other so the T-pump moves smoothly when the casing is closed.
* Route the tubing safely: Verify the internal plastic oil lines are not pinched or kinked by the outer housing.
* Test under power: Fully reassemble the unit, fill the oil reservoir, and run the chainsaw without a load for 10–15 seconds to ensure the new high-tack oil pumps out onto the guide bar.
Would you like help with troubleshooting the oil flow if it takes too long to prime, or do you need tips on adjusting the chain tension correctly during reassembly?
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Can I push the pump rod by hand to clear air?
Yes, you can absolutely push the pump by hand. Moving the rod manually is the safest and most effective way to bleed air out of the system without running the motor.
If the rod easily slides completely out of the plastic T-pump or off the elliptical ring, it means the parts are simply unlinked right now. Here is how to fix the air bubbles and manage the loose rod.
How to Move the Pump by Hand to Clear Air
Since the case is open, you do not need the motor to stroke the pump.
* Re-insert the rod: Push the straight end of the rod back into the receiver hole on the plastic T-pump.
* Pump manually: Hold the T-pump body steady with one hand, and use your other hand to push and pull the rod in and out.
* Watch the fluid: This manual stroking action will simulate the engine's movement and force the oil through the transparent tube.
Troubleshooting Air Bubbles
High-tack bar and chain oil is very thick, so trapping air during a fluid change is common. Follow these steps to clear it:
* Elevate the reservoir: Elevate or tilt the oil tank slightly higher than the end of the transparent tube. Gravity will help push the air bubbles upward and out. [1]
* Perform rapid, short strokes: Pump the rod manually using quick, short strokes. This creates sudden pressure drops that force stubborn air bubbles to break loose and travel down the tube.
* Massage the transparent tube: While pumping, gently squeeze or flick the transparent plastic tube with your fingers to dislodge bubbles sticking to the inner walls.
* Check the intake junction: If bubbles keep appearing continuously, check the joint where the tube connects to the reservoir. If it is loose, wipe it clean and push the tube further onto the nozzle to stop it from sucking in outside air.
Managing the Loose Rod Before Closing the Case
The rod is designed to slide out easily when the chainsaw is split open because it relies on the two halves of the plastic outer casing to hold it tightly in its track.
* The Elliptical Ring Alignment: Before you close the chainsaw, make sure the curved or hooked end of the rod is properly hooked over or resting against the elliptical ring on the gear axle.
* The T-Pump Alignment: Ensure the other end of the rod is fully inserted into the T-pump.
* Close carefully: Hold the rod steady in its track with your finger as you bring the top half of the chainsaw casing down. Once the casing screws are tightened, the plastic shell will lock the rod into its proper channel so it can no longer slip out.
Would you like to know how to test the oil flow at the guide bar exit once the case is closed, or do you need help identifying if a tube connection is leaking?
[1] [https://www.reddit.com](https://www.reddit.com/r/Chainsaw/comments/1avpd05/bar_and_chain_oil_leaking/)
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