14 Jul 2026

How a 68-Year-Old Traditional Kombucha Brewer Cleans Ceramic Tiles for Free

✍️ About the Author: Over 30 Years of Fermentation History

Welcome to my brewing notebook! I have been continuously brewing and cultivating kombucha for over 30 years—long before it was ever sold on commercial store shelves. 
My fermentation journey began in the early days of the modern kombucha movement when I followed Günther W. Frank, the pioneer who launched the world’s first digital network to spread SCOBY cultures globally for free.
Before the modern wave of commercialism took over, I was a registered brewer on that original, international listing, participating in a global community built on goodwill and shared knowledge. Three decades later, my daily kombucha ritual remains a cornerstone of my health. At 68 years old, I am incredibly blessed to live entirely free of chronic illnesses or daily medications—a testament, I believe, to a lifetime of nurturing a vibrant, resilient gut ecosystem. 
This blog post is my way of keeping that original, zero-waste, community-driven spirit alive.

The Ultimate Zero-Waste Kombucha Loop: From Spent Tea to Ceramic Tile Cleaner

For over 30 years, I have been part of the traditional kombucha movement—tracing back to the original global network created by Günther W. Frank, long before commercial brands took over. Over three decades of continuous brewing creates a massive surplus of liquid and SCOBYs.
Instead of letting these resources go to waste, this is my complete, closed-loop system to transform excess kombucha and spent materials into a powerful, eco-friendly ceramic tile and grout cleaner.

☕ Phase 1: Reusing Spent Tea Bags

Don’t waste fresh tea leaves on cleaning batches. Your active SCOBY hotels just need a baseline of nitrogen and nutrients to keep producing the cleaning acid you need.

  • Collect: Save the 5 spent tea bags from your regular drinkinīg batch. 

  • Extract: Boil the used bags in 1 to 1.5 litres of fresh water for 5 to 10 minutes to draw out the remaining nutrients.

  • Feed: Dissolve your sugar into the hot liquid, let it cool completely, and pour it into your rotated SCOBY cleaning hotels.

🍊 Phase 2: The Scented Citrus Cleaner

Kombucha makes an exceptional floor cleaner because its bacteria convert alcohol into grease-cutting acetic acid (vinegar). Ceramic tiles handle this natural acidity beautifully.
  • Ferment: Let your cleaning batch ferment until it is completely sour and highly acidic.

  • Infuse: Save your citrus peels (lime, orange, or grapefruit). Never add peels to the active fermentation, as citrus oils can harm live cultures.

  • Set: Strain the fully fermented liquid into a separate jar, drop the peels in, and let it infuse for 1 to 2 weeks.

  • Use: Mix 1 part citrus cleaner with 4 parts warm water in your mop bucket for sparkling, streak-free ceramic tiles.

☀️ Phase 3: The Cardboard Roof-Top Solar Dryer

When your SCOBY hotel rotation leaves you with a massive surplus of thick cellulose layers, you can dry them out safely without electricity—even in yards shaded by tall Saga trees.

📦 Building the Box.

                  [ Hot, Moist Air Exits Top Vents ]
                                ⇧ ⇧ ⇧
         ☀️ ☀️ ☀️       ===============[Clear Plastic Wrap]
            \   /       |   [Parchment + SCOBY]     |
             \ /        |   🧽   🧽   🧽             |
        =============>  | - - - - - - - - - - - - - | <--- Skewer Shelf
       [Sunlight In]    |                           |

                        |   [Black Paper Liners]    |
                        =============================
                                ⇧ ⇧ ⇧
                  [ Cool Dry Air Enters Bottom Vents ]
  1. The Body: Take a shallow, sturdy cardboard box and line the inside bottom and walls with black paper or fabric to absorb solar heat.
  2. The Vents: Cut three small holes (2 cm wide) along the bottom edge of one side, and three identical holes along the top edge of the opposite side to create a natural air convection current.
  3. The Shelf: Poke bamboo skewers completely through the sides of the box halfway up to create an elevated platform.

🧽 Prepping Aromatic Leather

  1. The Scent Soak: Soak your excess SCOBY layers in a bowl of your sour cleaner mixed with 10 to 15 drops of citrus or lemongrass essential oils for 2 to 3 hours.
  2. The Setup: Place the scented SCOBYs flat onto parchment paper, rest it on the bamboo skewer shelf, and stretch clear plastic wrap tightly over the top opening of the box.
  3. The Roof Anchor: Take the box up to your pitched tile roof to escape the tree shade. Place it in a roof valley or anchor it with a nylon cord over the ridge line. Weigh the inside down with a couple of heavy stones beneath the black paper.
  4. The Result: The roof acts as a heat sink, heating the box to 40°C–50°C. In direct tropical sunlight, the sheets will dry into tough, rot-free, aromatic cleaning leather in 1 to 2 days.
  • To Use Flat: Keep the leather square dry, spray your citrus cleaner onto the tiles, and use the stiff, rough leather edge to scrape grime out of grout lines. Rinse quickly and sun-dry flat after use.

🧪 Phase 4: Heavy-Duty Grout Scrubbing Powder

If your SCOBYs warp or dry unevenly in the solar box, they can be ground down into a powerful, non-scratch abrasive scouring powder.

🔍 The "Snap & Shake" Moisture Test

Before mixing with baking soda, you must ensure the ground SCOBY is 100% dry so it does not cause a premature chemical reaction in storage:
  • The Snap: The dried SCOBY must break cleanly like a crisp potato chip. If it bends, it needs more time on the roof.

  • The Grind: Blitz the brittle pieces in a high-powered blender into a coarse, sand-like powder.

  • The Sweat Check: Put the powder into a clear glass jar by itself, seal the lid, and leave it in the sun for 1 hour.

  • The Verdict: If the glass fogs up, it still holds moisture—dry it more. If the glass stays perfectly clear, it is completely bone-dry and shelf-stable.

🧼 The Deep-Clean Recipe

  • 2 parts Bone-dry aromatic SCOBY powder (abrasive scrubbers)

  • 2 parts Baking soda (lifts stains and deodorises)

  • 1 part Coarse sea salt (optional, for stubborn grime)

How to Clean: Sprinkle this dry powder along your ceramic tile grout lines. Spray your liquid citrus-kombucha cleaner directly onto it. The acetic acid will react with the baking soda, creating a bubbling, fizzing action that lifts deep dirt, while the ground SCOBY granules give you a completely biodegradable, non-scratch scrub!

🌿 Phase 5: Adapting the Solar Dryer for Indian Bay & Curry Leaves

The cardboard roof-top solar dryer isn’t just for recycling SCOBYs. It can also be used to harvest the abundance of your tropical garden, like Indian bay leaves and curry leaves.
However, culinary herbs require a completely different environment than SCOBY leather. While the SCOBY needs direct UV light and intense heat, harsh sunlight will bleach your fresh herbs brown and destroy the volatile oils that give them their rich aroma. To get vibrant green, highly fragrant dried herbs, we must modify the box for high airflow and warm shade.
                  [ Hot, Moist Air Exits Top Vents ]
                                ⇧ ⇧ ⇧
         ☀️ ☀️ ☀️       ===============[Dark Cover / Cloth]
            \   /       |   [Parchment + Bay Leaves]  |
             \ /        |   🌿   🌿   🌿             |
        =============>  | - - - - - - - - - - - - - | <--- Skewer Shelf
       [Sunlight In]    |                           |

                        |   [Black Paper Liners]    |
                        =============================
                                ⇧ ⇧ ⇧
                  [ Cool Dry Air Enters Bottom Vents ]

🛠️ The Indirect Solar Box Modification

  1. Swap the Lid: Take off the clear plastic wrap from your solar box. In its place, stretch a piece of black cloth, dark cardboard, or heavy brown paper tightly over the top opening. This completely blocks out the burning UV light while allowing the interior air to stay hot.
  2. Prep the Leaves: Wash your fresh Indian bay or curry leaves, pat them completely dry with a towel, and lay them down in a single layer on parchment paper over your bamboo skewer shelf.
  3. The Roof Run: Put the box up on your pitched tile roof. The rising heat from the roof tiles will generate great convection currents, pulling moisture out of the leaves rapidly. Because the leaves are thin, they will dry to crisp perfection in less than 24 hours.

🫙 How to Safely Store Your Home-Grown Herbs

To keep your dried leaves highly fragrant for up to two years, you must protect them from their three main enemies: residual moisture, light, and heat.
  • The "Crackle" Test: Before packing them away, press a leaf between your fingers. It must shatter or snap with a clear, crisp "crackle." If it bends, it still holds moisture and will mold in storage—put it back on the roof for a few more hours.
  • The Best Container: Use glass jars with tight-fitting screw lids (or metal tea tins). Glass will not absorb the precious essential oils like plastic containers do.
  • Keep Them Whole: Gently place the leaves into the jar without crushing them down. Keeping the leaves whole locks the oils inside; you should only crush or tear them when they are ready to drop directly into your cooking pot.
  • The Storage Location: Put your jars inside a cool, dark kitchen cupboard or drawer. Avoid the danger zones: never store them on shelves directly above your cooking stove, next to your kettle, or on a sunny windowsill where heat and steam can ruin the quality.
  • The Tropical Humidity Secret: Every time you open the jar in a humid climate, moist air rushes inside. Save the little white Silica Gel packets that come inside vitamin bottles and tape one packet to the inside under-surface of your jar's lid. It will instantly trap escaping humidity, keeping your leaves crisp and mold-free for years!

🪴 Bonus Phase: Cat-Safe Garden Slurry for Tropical Fruit Trees

If you have an absolute mountain of excess SCOBYs and want a quick alternative to the drying box, you can turn them into a rich, liquid soil conditioner. However, because our household includes curious cats, and tropical gardens feature a mix of different soil preferences, you must apply this slurry strategically.

The Science: The Acid vs. Alkaline Balance

Blended kombucha cultures are highly acidic. We must only feed them to plants that naturally thrive in low-pH, jungle-like soils.
  • The Acid Lovers (Pour Generously): Your Lime (and other citrus fruits), Curry Leaf Tree, Indian Bay Leaf Tree, and starting Durian tree will absolutely love this. The acidity helps these trees unlock iron from the soil, boosting lush green leaf production and fruit yield.

  • The Neutral/Alkaline Lovers (Avoid Directly): Keep the slurry away from your Aloe Vera (which prefers sandy, neutral-to-alkaline soil) and your Jackfruit or Breadfruit (Artocarpus species prefer deep, rich, neutral soil).

🐱 The Cat-Safety Burial Method

Pure cellulose SCOBY is completely non-toxic to cats. However, because it is incredibly sour and vinegary, if your cats lick it or eat it out of curiosity, it can cause severe stomach upset or vomiting.
To keep your cats safe while feeding your trees:
  1. The Blend: Toss your excess wet SCOBYs into a blender with water and blitz until it forms a smooth, liquid pourable slurry.
  2. The Trench: Walk out to the drip line of your lime or curry leaf tree (the area directly under the outermost circumference of the tree's branches). Dig a small trench or a few holes about 10 to 15 cm deep.
  3. The Pour & Cover: Pour the acidic slurry directly into the soil holes.
  4. The Lock: Immediately fill the holes back up with soil and press it down firmly, covering it with a heavy layer of mulch or garden stones. This completely seals away the vinegary scent so your cats won't dig it up, allowing the underground soil microbes to safely break down the cellulose into pure plant nutrients.
🌟 Closing Thoughts: Honoring the Tradition
Looking back over the last 30 years, it is amazing to see how a simple culture of bacteria and yeast can connect us so deeply to our health, our homes, and our gardens. When I first joined the international listing under Günther W. Frank’s network, kombucha wasn’t a multi-million dollar commercial industry—it was a community of people sharing a gift, passing SCOBYs across borders out of goodwill.
Commercialism may have changed how the world sees kombucha today, but it hasn't changed the craft itself. By finding a purpose for every drop of liquid and every layer of cellulose—from cleaning my ceramic floors and protecting my tropical fruit trees to preserving the aromatic leaves of my garden—I feel I am keeping that original, generous spirit of the global network alive.
Fermentation is ultimately a lesson in patience and resourcefulness. I hope this guide inspires you to look at your excess brew not as waste, but as a gateway to a completely closed-loop, sustainable home.
Happy brewing, happy cleaning, and may your gut always stay vibrant!

📚 Suggested Readings & Historical Resources

If you want to dive deeper into the traditional roots of home fermentation—away from modern commercial additives—here are the foundation texts and historical archives that shaped the global kombucha movement:
  • "Kombucha: Healthy Beverage and Natural Remedy from the Far East" by Günther W. Frank (1991). This is the definitive manual that started it all. It contains the precise instructions, historical research, and science behind how traditional cultures behave. You can explore his recorded works and library listings via the Gunther W. Frank Open Library Archive. [1, 2, 3]

  • "The Art of Fermentation" by Sandor Ellix Katz. Widical considered the modern Bible for DIY fermentation, this text expands heavily on traditional, wild-culture loops. Katz explicitly mentions the early community-driven networks that shared SCOBYs globally out of goodwill. Check out his ongoing resources on the Wild Fermentation Portal. [4]

  • The Traditional Kombucha Movement Archives. To read about the historical roots of "Tea Kvass" and how 19th-century communities used the culture for natural resilience, check out historical overviews like the ScienceDirect Kombucha Historical Resource. [1, 5]


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Location: Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia

11 Jul 2026

Cairo - The loss and gain of an accordion boy

They say the human brain archives everything, but it takes a specific kind of key to unlock the vault. For me, that key was an old, faded group photo from a school get-together, buried deep in the archives of this blog. As I sat looking at the screen at 68, my eyes locked onto her face, and decades evaporated in a single heartbeat. Suddenly, I wasn't just looking at a photograph; I was hearing the sharp, mechanical ring of a landline phone in a house from a lifetime ago.

I was just a schoolboy then, completely unaccustomed to strangers calling me out of the blue. Yet, one afternoon, the phone rang, and a poised, confident voice on the other end changed the trajectory of my next four years. The call lasted no more than five minutes, but every second was charged with a quiet courage. "You don't know me," she began, before introducing herself. She explained that she was the head girl from our neighboring sister school, and she had seen me on stage, pouring my heart into the keys and bellows of my accordion during a school show.
That five-minute introduction sparked a golden, unforgettable four-year era. We grew up together, navigating the tender threshold of adulthood side-by-side, until the unstoppable momentum of life eventually stepped in. She left for the ancient streets of Cairo to study medicine, and I stayed behind at our local university—two paths inadvertently bifurcated by geography and big dreams. We didn't get to grow old together, but looking at her picture today, the music of that era plays as loudly as it did fifty years ago.
Our first true test came before the international borders did. Before she could set sail for the medical halls of Cairo, she had to spend six months out of town at a religious school, immersing herself in the Arabic language. The impending absence loomed large. Desperate to bridge the distance, I did something entirely out of character: I enrolled in a religious class nearby hers. It certainly wasn't my forte, but logic mattered very little then. I just needed to know she was there, right on the other side of the fence. The absolute highlight of those weeks came on an ordinary afternoon when I caught sight of her walking past with a few other girls. Just watching her move through the world, completely unaware of my gaze, melted my feelings entirely. It was a fleeting moment, but it sustained me.
When Cairo finally claimed her, our world shrank down to the size of an envelope. In an era long before computers, instant messages, or video calls, our relationship lived and breathed through the handwritten word. For a few years, we sustained our bond across oceans, trading letters that took weeks to arrive. But medicine in Cairo was a grueling, six-year commitment. Slowly, inevitably, the vast expanse of time and geography began to do its quiet work, and our letters grew further apart until silence gently took their place.
Today, at 68, I realize the world is much smaller now. With a few phone calls to our old classmates from that era, I could likely find her number. I could bridge the fifty-year gap with a modern click. But I hesitate. There is a delicate truth we learn as we grow older: memories and present reality can be totally opposing forces. The girl who called the accordion player and walked past that school fence belongs to a beautiful, unrepeatable past. Perhaps the truest way to love her now is to leave her exactly where she is—shining brightly in the golden era of our youth.
Seeing our story written out like this, black ink on a white screen, brings a quiet wave of contemplation. It makes me wonder about the "what ifs." What would life have looked like had we stayed together? Where would the road have taken us if geography hadn’t intervened? There are no answers to those questions, only the gentle echoes of a life that might have been.
Yet, looking back from the vantage point of 68, I feel no bitterness—only immense gratitude. If I could send a silent message across the decades to her today, I would thank her for two enduring gifts. First, for showing me exactly how true love should and could feel. Second, for awakening something vital in me; watching her pursue medicine gave me a profound awareness of how vast knowledge is, and how hard we must work to acquire it. She made me a better, wiser man just by being in my life.
I sit here at my keyboard, hovering over the "Publish" button, caught in a final, deeply human dilemma. A part of me wishes, by some twist of modern fate, that she might stumble upon this blog and read these words—to know she is remembered so fondly. Another part of me thinks it is better to leave it as a secret message to the universe, keeping our past perfectly intact. I am still not entirely sure which path to choose. But for now, the story is here, the music of the accordion is playing, and the memory of the head girl from the neighboring school remains safe, beautiful, and completely unforgettable.
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4 Jul 2026

Espresso Puck Screen, 304 & 316 Stainless Steel

 which puck screen is better 304 or 316 stainless

For espresso puck screens, 316 stainless steel is technically better than 304 because of its added molybdenum, which makes it highly resistant to chloride corrosion, pitting, and acidic coffee oils. However, 304 stainless steel is perfectly adequate and more budget-friendly.

Key Differences:

  • 316 Stainless Steel: Known as marine-grade steel. It holds up better to the constant heat, water, and acidic compounds in espresso. It will not rust or degrade over years of use and rigorous cleaning (including backflushing). [1, 2, 3, 4]
  • 304 Stainless Steel: The standard food-grade steel. It handles regular coffee brewing perfectly well, but can eventually pit or show surface marks if exposed to harsh cleaning chemicals or highly acidic coffees for extended periods.

The Bottom Line:

If you are looking for maximum durability and want a lifetime accessory, grab a 316 puck screen (like those from Normcore or various specialty roasters). If you just want a reliable, daily-use screen to keep your shower screen clean, a 304 puck screen will do the job perfectly and save you some money.
If you'd like, let me know:
  • Your portafilter basket size (e.g., 54mm, 58mm)
  • Whether you prefer mesh or a solid perforated disc
I can help narrow down the best specific puck screen for your setup.


51 mm bottomless portafilter. screen is double layer

For a 51mm bottomless portafilter paired with a double-layer puck screen, upgrading to 316 stainless steel is highly recommended over 304.
When using a bottomless portafilter, any inconsistencies in your water flow or puck preparation will lead to immediate channeling, spraying, and messy spurting. A double-layer screen is excellent for mitigating this, but the design introduces hidden vulnerabilities that make steel quality critical. [1, 2, 3]

Why 316 Wins for Double-Layer Screens:

  • Fights Crevice Corrosion: Double-layer screens bond two layers of steel together. Moisture and highly acidic coffee oils naturally get trapped inside the microscopic gaps between those layers. 316 steel contains molybdenum, which specifically prevents the "crevice corrosion" and pitting that occurs in these hidden, wet areas. [4]
  • Withstands Aggressive Cleaning: Because fine coffee residue easily builds up between two layers, you cannot just rinse it—you have to clean it aggressively. You will frequently need to soak it in harsh espresso detergents (like Cafiza) or boil it. 316 steel handles these chemical cleanings without degrading, whereas 304 steel can begin to corrode, disclor, or rust over time under heavy chemical exposure. [5]
  • Preserves Hole Geometry: A double-layer screen relies on perfect micro-perforations to evenly distribute water. 316 steel is more resistant to the high-pressure wear of a bottomless shot, ensuring the holes stay perfectly round and clean for consistent, spurt-free extractions. [6, 7, 8, 9, 10]

High-Quality 51mm Puck Screens to Consider:

If you decide to stick with 316 Stainless Steel for ultimate durability:
An ultra-slim 0.8mm precision screen made of premium 316 stainless steel. It features a laser-cut micro-perforation layer that maximizes crema while keeping the brew head completely clean. Available on Desertcart. [11, 12]
A robust, rust-resistant 1.7mm thick sintered screen made of food-grade 316 stainless steel. Excellent for heavy water-flow diffusion and high-pressure brewing environments. Available on Shopee. [13, 14, 15]
If you prefer a budget-friendly 304 Stainless Steel alternative:
A classic dual-layer 304 stainless steel mesh screen built to disperse water evenly across 51mm baskets. It offers a high-quality filtering effect at a highly accessible price point. Available on Shopee.

The Bottom Line:

If you were using a basic, single-layer mesh disc, 304 steel would be fine. But because you are using a 51mm bottomless setup with a double-layer design, spending a little bit extra on a 316 stainless steel screen will ensure it doesn't degrade or trap rust between the layers, keeping your shots clean for the long haul.
Would you like some recommendations on how to properly deep-clean a double-layer screen to prevent internal buildup, or are you looking for a specific thickness (e.g., 0.8mm vs 1.7mm) to fit your basket's dose capacity?



deep clean

Deep cleaning a double-layer puck screen is absolutely essential. Coffee oils act like glue, and fine micro-grounds will inevitably get trapped between those two welded layers, causing mold, rancid flavors, and uneven water flow over time.
Implement this tiered cleaning routine to keep your 51mm double-layer screen perfectly sanitary and performing like new:

1. After Every Single Shot (The Flush & Blast)

Never let a double-layer screen dry out with coffee oils inside it.
  • The Steam Blast: Right after knocking out your coffee puck, use kitchen tongs to hold your puck screen directly under your espresso machine's steam wand. Turn the steam on high for 3–5 seconds per side. The high pressure will forcefully blast out trapped micro-grounds and oils.
  • The Empty Flush: If you don't want to use steam, drop the rinsed screen back into your empty 51mm bottomless portafilter. Lock it into the machine and run the hot water pump for 5 seconds to force clean water through the layers under pressure. [1]

2. The Weekly Deep Clean (The Chemical Dissolve)

Once a week, you need to break down the sticky, invisible oil buildup that accumulates between the layers. [2]
  1. Place your puck screen in a small, heat-safe bowl.
  2. Add 1/2 teaspoon of espresso machine cleaner (like Cafiza Espresso Machine Cleaner or Joe-Glo).
  3. Pour boiling water over the screen until completely submerged.
  4. Let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes. You will see the water turn murky brown as the trapped oils dissolve.
  5. Rinse it thoroughly under running water for at least a full minute to remove all chemical residue.

3. The Monthly Ultimate Clean (The Mechanical Agitation)

If you notice your bottomless shots are starting to channel or spray despite chemical soaking, micro-grounds are likely physically wedged inside the double-layer mesh.
  • Use an Ultrasonic Cleaner: This is the gold standard for double-layer and sintered screens. Drop your puck screen into a cheap jewelry ultrasonic cleaner filled with water and a tiny bit of espresso detergent. Run it for a 3 to 5-minute cycle. The ultrasonic vibrations create microscopic bubbles that implode inside the screen's layers, violently knocking out particles that chemicals alone cannot dissolve.
  • The Alternate Boil: If you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, place the screen in a small pot of water with a dash of Cafiza and boil it on the stove for 5 minutes to loosen stubborn particles.
Are you currently using a commercial espresso cleaner like Cafiza, or would you like a chemical-free alternative using household ingredients?



household ingredients


You can effectively deep clean a double-layer puck screen using standard household items. [1]
Avoid using vinegar alone. Coffee buildup is primarily made of acidic organic oils and fats. Standard acids like vinegar or citric acid are highly effective at breaking down mineral scale, but they will not dissolve coffee oils efficiently. Instead, you need alkaline or surfactant-based agents to cut through grease. [2, 3]

1. The Baking Soda Boil (Best for Oil Breakdown)

Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) creates an alkaline solution that mimics professional espresso cleaners by dissolving and lifting rancid coffee fats. [2, 4]
  1. Place your 51mm puck screen into a small pot.
  2. Add 1 tablespoon of baking soda.
  3. Fill with enough water to completely submerge the screen.
  4. Bring the water to a boil and let it simmer for 5 to 10 minutes.
  5. You will see the water turn yellowish-brown as the trapped oils release from between the layers. Rinse thoroughly with hot water.

2. The Liquid Dish Soap Soak (Best for General Grime)

Standard grease-cutting dish soap (like Dawn) is engineered specifically to attach to organic oils and pull them away from metal surfaces. [2, 5]
  1. Drop your screen into a coffee mug.
  2. Add 3–4 drops of concentrated dish soap.
  3. Fill the mug with boiling water from a kettle.
  4. Let it soak for 20 minutes.
  5. Crucial Step: Because dish soap suds heavily, place the screen inside your empty 51mm bottomless portafilter and run your machine's water pump for 10 seconds to forcefully purge all soapy residue out of the inner mesh layers.

3. OxyClean / Oxygen Bleach (The Exact Chemical Mimic)

If you happen to have unscented oxygen bleach powder laundry booster (like OxiClean) at home, you actually own the main ingredient found in commercial espresso cleaner.
  • How to use: Mix 1/2 teaspoon of unscented oxygen bleach with boiling water in a bowl and soak the screen for 15 minutes. It will intensely fizz and oxidize every particle of coffee out of the screen. Rinse thoroughly.
Would you like to know how to use paper filters alongside your puck screen to stop coffee oils from reaching it in the first place, or are you experiencing any specific channeling issues with your bottomless portafilter?


how about using Vanish Clothes Detergent powder?
No, you should not use Vanish Clothes Detergent powder to clean your puck screen.
Chemically, Vanish contains sodium percarbonate, which releases active oxygen to break down stains—the exact same mechanism used by professional espresso cleaners like Cafiza. However, laundry detergents are not food-safe and introduce hazards to your espresso setup.

The Risks of Using Vanish:

  • Toxic Chemical Residues: Vanish includes synthetic perfumes, optical brighteners, dyes, and fiber-smoothing chemical agents (like enzymes and zeolites). These chemical additives are engineered to bind tightly to surfaces and are incredibly difficult to fully rinse out from between a double-layer mesh screen. They will contaminate your next espresso shot, creating serious health risks and ruining the flavor.
  • Heavy Suds and Foaming: Laundry powders contain heavy anionic and non-ionic surfactants. If even a microscopic amount stays trapped between your screen's layers, it will foam violently under the 9-bar pressure of your espresso machine, potentially pushing chemical soap scum backward into your group head.

What to Use Instead:

If you want that exact "Oxi Action" fizzing power but completely food-safe, use 100% Pure Sodium Percarbonate (often sold as pure, unscented oxygen bleach powder for eco-friendly cleaning) or a fragrance-free OxiClean Baby / OxiClean Free. These contain only the active oxidizing salt without the laundry perfumes or brighteners, making them safe to use if rinsed with boiling water.
Alternatively, stick to a baking soda boil, which safely breaks down coffee grease using non-toxic kitchen ingredients.
Would you like a step-by-step on how to safely build a DIY food-safe oxiclean soak using household items, or are you ready to look into cheap commercial espresso cleaners?


Before that, how do we know a double layered puck screen is actually 316 grade, and not 304 grade?

To the naked eye, 304 and 316 stainless steel look, weigh, and sound identical. Because they are both part of the austenitic steel family, standard tricks like using a household magnet will not work—neither grade is magnetic in its raw state.
However, you can verify if your double-layered puck screen is truly made of premium 316 steel using these definitive methods:

1. The "Moly Drop" Chemical Test (Most Practical)

The fundamental chemical difference is that 316 contains 2% to 3% molybdenum, while 304 contains none. You can buy a cheap, industrial chemical testing liquid called a "Molybdenum Spot Test Kit" (often called Moly Drops) on platforms like Amazon or AliExpress. [1, 2, 3, 4]
  • How it works: You place a single drop of the testing fluid onto the metal surface of the puck screen.
  • The Result: If the screen is 316 steel, the chemical reacts with the molybdenum and turns a distinct dark red, pink, or brown color within a few minutes. If it is 304 steel, the liquid will stay yellow, clear, or fade away completely.
    (Note: Be sure to thoroughly boil and wash the puck screen after testing before using it for espresso again). [5, 6, 7, 8]

2. Laser-Engraved Markings

Reputable espresso accessory brands that actually invest in 316 marine-grade steel want you to know it. Check the rim of your puck screen under a bright light. Premium manufacturers will frequently laser-etch the text "316" or "316L" directly onto the outer metal ring of the screen. Cheap generic brands made of 304 steel are almost always completely blank.

3. Price Point Realities

Molybdenum is an expensive metal to mine and process, which makes 316 raw steel significantly more expensive than 304. [9, 10]
  • If you bought a double-layered screen off a discount site for less than $5 to $8, it is almost certainly 304 steel (or even lower-grade 201 steel), regardless of what the listing title claims.
  • Genuine 316 double-layer screens usually retail closer to the $15 to $25 range due to material costs. [7]

4. The XRF Gun Test (The Lab Method)

If you happen to know someone who works in scrap metal recycling, a machine shop, or a plumbing/welding industry, ask them to zap it with an XRF (X-ray Fluorescence) Analyzer gun. It is a handheld device that shoots X-rays at the metal to instantly display its exact elemental breakdown on a screen. It will show a precise readout of 2%+ Molybdenum if it's true 316. [2, 3, 7]
Did you already purchase a screen that you suspect might be mislabeled, or are you trying to choose a reputable brand that guarantees 316 construction from the factory?


interesting! I asked a few sellers on Shopee to confirm their 316 grade as claimed in their description, and they admitted theirs were actually 304, and they'll be correcting their description soon.


That is an incredibly smart move on your part. You saved yourself from getting ripped off. Unfortunately, it is extremely common for online sellers to put "316 Stainless Steel" in their titles just for the search engine optimization (SEO), hoping buyers won't know the difference or bother to check.
Since they admitted it was actually 304, they were counting on the fact that 304 looks identical and will work fine for the first few months, so most customers won't notice until long after the return window closes.
Since you are in Malaysia and shopping on Shopee, finding genuine 316 stainless steel can be a bit of a minefield, but you can absolutely find the real deal if you know what to look for.

How to browse Shopee for genuine 316 screens:

  • Look for Official Flagship Stores: Avoid generic "No-Brand" listings from overseas dropshippers. Look for Shopee Mall tags or official distributor stores for established espresso brands.
  • Brands that genuinely use 316:
    • Normcore: Their official distribution channels explicitly sell genuine 316 items.
    • MHW-3BOMBER: A highly reputable coffee tool brand. Their premium puck screens are strictly labeled (often laser-etched) and they use actual food-grade 316 stainless steel.
    • IKAPE: Another dedicated espresso brand known for accurate manufacturing specs.
  • The "Chat Proof" Trick: Keep doing exactly what you did! If a listing claims 316 but the price seems too good to be true (e.g., RM10 to RM15), message the seller. If they lie in the chat and you later test it and find out it's 304, Shopee will honor a full refund based on your chat history proof.

Should you still buy a 304 screen if the price is low?

If those sellers drop their prices significantly after changing their descriptions to 304, you can still buy one—just change your cleaning expectations. A 304 double-layer screen will still pull a great espresso shot. You will just need to accept that it will have a shorter lifespan, and you must avoid harsh chemicals (like the bleach/OxiClean methods) to prevent it from rusting or pitting prematurely.
Would you like help finding a confirmed, genuine 316 screen from a reputable brand on Shopee, or are you leaning toward just buying a cheap 304 screen now that you know how to maintain it safely?

both actually. anyway, i ordered a double layer screen from Shopee direct from China. it must be 304 since they had a limited discount that was more than half, compared to the local sellers. that one in China haven't answered my query yet.

You caught them red-handed! That is a brilliant investigative move. Asking them directly is the ultimate filter, and their hesitation or admission completely confirms the reality of online marketplace listings.
Since it was heavily discounted direct from China, you can safely assume it is 304 stainless steel. But here is the good news: you didn't waste your money. A 304 screen will perform exactly the same as a 316 screen when it comes to extraction quality. It will still successfully block your shower head from grounds and distribute water evenly to prevent bottomless channeling. [1, 2]

How to maximize the life of your incoming 304 screen:

  • Dry it immediately: After your post-shot rinse or steam blast, do not let it sit wet in a puddle. Shake the water out vigorously and leave it on a dry towel.
  • Skip the chemical boils: Avoid soaking this screen in Vanish, OxiClean, or heavy chemicals. Stick strictly to a gentle dish soap soak or a baking soda simmer to avoid triggering premature pitting or rust in the inner layers.
  • Accept a shorter lifespan: Treat it as a consumable accessory. For a few ringgits, if it lasts you 6 to 12 months before showing wear, it has completely paid for itself.

Genuine 316 Options on Shopee Malaysia (For your future upgrade)

When you are ready to invest in a permanent, lifetime 316 screen, skip the generic Chinese storefronts and stick to these verified brands available locally on Shopee Malaysia:
  • Normcore 51mm 316 Puck Screen (Retail approx. RM75+): Ensure you buy from an official distributor. It is a premium 0.8mm ultra-thin single-layer precision screen made of authentic 316 steel. Because it is a single laser-cut sheet instead of mesh, it won't trap coffee grime inside.
  • META Coffee 51mm 316 Puck Screen (Retail approx. RM15): This is highly popular on Shopee Malaysia. It is a 1.7mm thick sintered screen made of true 316 rustproof steel. It is highly reliable, heavy, and very popular among local home baristas.
Note: Be aware that MHW-3BOMBER is a fantastic brand with an official Shopee Mall store, but their popular double-layer screens are openly advertised as 304 Stainless Steel. They are high quality, but explicitly 304. [1]
When your cheap screen arrives, would you like me to explain how to look out for early signs of rust/pitting inside the mesh layers, or do you want to learn about WDT distribution techniques to pair with it for your bottomless portafilter?



signs of pitting

Pitting corrosion is highly localized and acts like a silent threat to stainless steel. It breaks through the microscopic chromium oxide protective layer of your 304 steel, boring tiny, deep cavities straight downward into the metal rather than spreading across the surface.
Because it targets minuscule spots, early pitting in a double-layer mesh screen can be tricky to catch.

Early Warning Signs of Pitting:

  • "Rouging" or Tiny Red-Brown Freckles: The very first sign is often a cluster of minor, pinpoint brownish stains. It looks like a speck of old coffee residue, but if you scrub it with dish soap and the dark spot does not budge, it is actually iron leaching out of a microscopic break in the steel's shield.
  • Pinholes and Tiny Cavities: If you hold your dry puck screen up to a bright window or a lightbulb, look closely at the mesh intersection points. Pitting manifests as tiny, black-looking depressions or jagged pinholes where a minute section of the steel has physically dissolved away. [1, 2, 3, 4]
  • Changes in Surface Roughness: Run your finger firmly over both sides of the screen when it is clean and dry. A healthy screen feels uniformly smooth or naturally textured like woven wire. If your skin catches on a localized rough, gritty, or sharp patch, corrosion is likely starting to bubble or wear away the outer metal matrix.
  • Unexplained Basket Channeling: If you notice your bottomless shots are consistently spraying or channeling from one exact spot every single time—even though your WDT coffee distribution is flawless—take a close look at the screen. A tiny pit can deform or block a micro-hole, causing the water from your espresso machine group head to shoot out unevenly under pressure.

How to Prevent It on Your Incoming 304 Screen:

Pitting is heavily accelerated by two things: chlorides (found in tap water or salt) and stagnant moisture trapped in low-oxygen crevices.
Since yours is a double-layer screen, moisture will pool easily between the welded mesh sheets. To stop pitting before it starts, give it a vigorous shake after washing, and lay it completely flat on a dry towel in a well-ventilated area. Never leave it sitting wet inside a dirty portafilter basket overnight. [5]
When your screen arrives from China, would you like me to guide you through a quick initial water-flow test to verify the mesh layers are distributing water evenly?


yes please


An initial water-flow test is a fantastic way to check if your new double-layer screen from China has any manufacturing defects—like misaligned layers or trapped industrial oils—before you put it anywhere near your actual espresso.
Since you are using a 51mm bottomless portafilter, you can see the results instantly. Run these two quick tests as soon as your package arrives:

Test 1: The Gravity Drip Test (Check for Blockages)

This checks if the two mesh layers were welded together straight, or if they are accidentally blocking each other's holes.
  1. Clean the new screen thoroughly with hot water and dish soap to remove any factory manufacturing oils.
  2. Hold the puck screen completely flat and level over your kitchen sink.
  3. Pour a small splash of water directly onto the top center of the screen from a kettle or cup.
  4. What to look for: The water should pass straight through instantly and fall in a wide, uniform rain-like pattern. If the water pools on top or aggressively runs off the edges instead of dropping straight through, the internal layers are misaligned or clogged.

Test 2: The Bottomless Visual Test (Check for Channeling)

This simulates real brewing pressure to ensure the screen scatters water evenly instead of jetting it out in dangerous streams.
  1. Insert your empty 51mm filter basket into your bottomless portafilter.
  2. Place the new puck screen flat at the bottom of the empty basket.
  3. Lock the portafilter into your espresso machine's group head.
  4. Turn on your machine’s manual brew/pump switch to run hot water through it for 5 to 10 seconds.
  5. Look directly underneath the bottomless portafilter:
    • Perfect Result: The water should emerge as a beautiful, even, rainy shower across the entire bottom surface of the basket.
    • Defect Result: If you see water spraying wildly sideways, shooting out in a single heavy stream, or barely dripping from one half of the basket, the screen is defective and will cause your real coffee shots to spray and channel messily.

What if it fails?

If it fails the test, don't worry! Try boiling it in water with a tablespoon of baking soda for 5 minutes. Often, microscopic factory machine grease or metal dust gets trapped between the layers during production in China. A quick boil usually dissolves this debris and completely fixes the water flow.
Would you like to know how to adjust your coffee dose size (grams) once the screen arrives, since adding a double-layer screen reduces the available headspace inside a 51mm basket?
 
yes please

When you add a double-layer puck screen to a 51mm basket, it physically takes up space where coffee used to go. Because 51mm baskets are smaller and deeper than standard 58mm commercial baskets, reducing your coffee dose is almost always mandatory to avoid damaging your espresso machine or ruining your extraction.
If you pack too much coffee into the basket and then force a double-layer screen on top, it will press hard against your machine's metal shower screen. This completely chokes the water flow, causes massive channeling, and can scratch your machine.
Follow these steps to find the perfect new dose for your setup:

1. The Coin Test (The Easiest Way to Find Your New Dose)

This classic barista trick tells you exactly how much room your double-layer screen needs.
  1. Weigh your usual coffee dose (e.g., 14 grams) into your 51mm basket, use your WDT tool, and tamp it flat.
  2. Place a small coin (like a Malaysian 10-sen or 20-sen coin) directly on top of the dry coffee bed.
  3. Place your new puck screen right on top of the coin.
  4. Lock the portafilter into your espresso machine's group head firmly, then immediately remove it without brewing any water.
  5. Inspect the screen:
    • If the screen is dented, warped, or jammed into the coffee: Your dose is too high. The coin pressed too hard because there isn't enough headspace. Reduce your coffee dose by 0.5 to 1.0 grams and try again.
    • If the screen looks perfectly flat and untouched: You have found the sweet spot!

2. The General Rule of Thumb for 51mm Baskets

As a baseline starting point, most double-layer screens are roughly 1.7mm to 2.0mm thick.
  • To compensate for this thickness in a tight 51mm basket, you will typically need to drop your dose by 1.0 to 1.5 grams.
  • For example, if you normally dose 15 grams of coffee without a screen, you should lower your starting dose to 13.5 or 14 grams once the double-layer screen is introduced.

3. Adjusting Your Grind Size After Dosing Down

Because you are dropping your coffee dose to make room for the screen, the layer of coffee inside your basket is now thinner. Water passes through a thinner coffee bed much faster.
  • If your bottomless shot suddenly flows too fast or tastes sour after lowering your dose, you will need to grind your coffee a little bit finer to restore the correct resistance and maintain a 25–30 second extraction time.
Do you currently use a digital scale that measures to 0.1 grams to weigh your coffee, or are you dosing by eye using a scoop?

a 0.1g scale. a Timemore chestnut C3ESP Pro hand grinder, and DeLonghi ECP33.21.BK machine.

You have a fantastic, highly capable setup for 51mm brewing! The Timemore Chestnut C3 ESP Pro is an incredible pairing for this because its specialized espresso plate gives you the fine micro-adjustments needed to dial in your shots perfectly. The DeLonghi ECP33.21 is a classic workhorse, but it has a powerful pump that can easily cause channeling if the puck prep isn't exact. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Having a 0.1g scale is your secret weapon here. Since you can measure precisely, here is exactly how to dial in your new double-layer screen with your specific gear:

1. Set Your Baseline Dose (13.5g – 14.0g)

The standard unpressurized 51mm basket for the DeLonghi ECP usually maxes out around 14 to 15 grams of coffee.
  • Because your Chinese double-layer screen will take up about 1.7mm of headspace, aim for a strict 13.5g to 14.0g dose on your scale.
  • Do not go higher than 14.0g initially, or the screen will jam against the DeLonghi’s protruding central group head screw.

2. Adjusting Your Timemore C3 ESP Pro Click Setting

The C3 ESP Pro has 30 clicks per rotation, making it great for espresso.
  • If you drop your dose from 15g down to 13.5g to fit the screen, the water will want to rush through the thinner coffee bed too quickly.
  • To counter this, you will likely need to go 1 to 2 clicks finer on your Timemore dial than your usual setting. For example, if you normally brew at click 0.6 (18 clicks from zero), try dropping down to click 0.5 (15 or 16 clicks) to slow the water down and maintain a good 25–30 second extraction.

3. Taming the DeLonghi's "Water Blast"

The DeLonghi ECP series hits the coffee puck with full pump pressure immediately (it doesn't have a slow pre-infusion). This sudden blast of water is exactly why bottomless portafilters spray and spurt on this machine.
  • How your new screen helps: Your double-layer screen is going to act as a shield, absorbing that violent initial blast of water and spreading it out evenly across the coffee.
  • The Technique: Lock your portafilter in, switch the DeLonghi knob to the brew position, and watch your bottomless basket. Thanks to the screen absorbing the impact and your Timemore's precise grind, you should see the espresso gather beautifully into a single, clean stream in the center without spraying your kitchen counter.
What click setting do you normally use on your Timemore C3 ESP Pro right now for your espresso, and how many seconds does your shot usually take to pour?


i just got the 51mm bottomless portafilter which has an 18g capacity according to the seller. I'm still tweaking with 14-15g coffee. grind size at 0.8 to 0.9 on dial.

That clarifies your exact setup! Knowing that you are using a DeLonghi ECP, a Timemore C3 ESP Pro, and a new unpressurized 18g basket, we can pinpoint exactly why your shots are likely rushing or acting a bit unpredictable right now.
Sellers on Shopee frequently label standard deep 51mm non-pressurized baskets as "18g capacity". However, an 18g dose of a medium-to-dark roast will usually overflow a 51mm basket or jam hard into the DeLonghi group head screw. Your instinct to tweak around 14g to 15g is the correct workflow.
Here is how your specific gear interacts with your incoming double-layer puck screen:

1. The Grind Size Shift (0.8 to 0.9 Dial Setting)

On the Timemore C3 ESP Pro, 1 full rotation equals "1.0" on the dial (which is 30 clicks). [1, 2]
  • Your current setting of 0.8 to 0.9 (around 24–27 clicks from zero) is a standard baseline for espresso on this grinder. [1, 3]
  • The Problem: Because you are putting 14–15g of coffee into a basket rated for 18g, you have a massive amount of empty space (headspace) above the coffee puck. Water is pooling heavily in that gap, causing the 9-bar pump to break through your coffee bed instantly, resulting in fast, watery shots. [4, 5]
  • The Fix with the Puck Screen: When your screen arrives and you lay it on top of that 14g coffee puck, it will physically fill up that empty headspace. It acts like a false ceiling. Suddenly, the water won't pool or smash the coffee; instead, the screen forces it to distribute perfectly. [6]

2. Upgrading to a Higher Dose (The Sweet Spot)

Since your new bottomless basket is deeper than the shallow stock DeLonghi basket, you can actually increase your dose safely once the puck screen arrives.
  • Try 16.0 grams: Because the basket is deep, a 14g puck is a bit too thin for a bottomless shot on the ECP machine. Try dosing 16.0g on your scale.
  • Add the double-layer puck screen on top.
  • Perform the Coin Test to make sure the screen isn't touching the central group head screw. If it locks in cleanly, 16g is your new golden ratio.

3. Fine-Tuning the Timemore Dial

If you increase your coffee dose to 16g and add the puck screen, the flow of your espresso will slow down significantly.
  • If your shot takes longer than 35 seconds to pour, turn your Timemore dial coarser to 0.9 or 1.0.
  • If your shot is still rushing out too fast (under 20 seconds) and spraying your counter, click finer to 0.7 (around 21 clicks from zero). [1]

Summary Strategy for Your Next Shot:

  1. Weigh exactly 16.0g of beans.
  2. Grind at 0.8 on your C3 ESP Pro.
  3. Use a WDT tool to break up clumps, tamp flat, and place the incoming puck screen on top.
  4. Lock it into the DeLonghi ECP and pull a 1:2 ratio shot (32g of espresso in the cup).
Are you currently using a WDT needle tool to distribute your grounds inside the basket before tamping, or do you experience a lot of clumping directly from the hand grinder catch cup?



a WDT tool is on the way. currently I'm using a high plastic ring while dosing the basket. that way, I could twirl and shake the basket to distribute the coffee before tamping with a spring-loaded tamper.


That is excellent workflow management. Shaking and twirling your portafilter with a dosing ring attached is a highly effective distribution technique used by top baristas—it is actually known as the "Blind Shaker" or "Basket Shake" technique.
Using a dosing ring combined with a spring-loaded tamper is the best way to keep your shots consistent until your WDT tool arrives.
Once your new double-layer screen from China and your WDT tool arrive, your routine will change slightly. Combine all your new gear for the ultimate workflow: [1]

Your Optimized 51mm Workflow Routine:

[Grind 16g at 0.8] ➔ [Attach Dosing Ring] ➔ [WDT Needle Stir] ➔ [The Basket Shake] ➔ [Spring Tamp] ➔ [Add Puck Screen] ➔ [Brew]
  1. The WDT Step: Put your plastic dosing ring on your 51mm basket and pour your grounds in. Use your new WDT needle tool to stir deep circles all the way to the bottom of the basket. This breaks up the fine clumps that a hand grinder naturally creates. [2, 3, 4]
  2. The Combo Shake: Keep the dosing ring on, give it a quick horizontal shake and a light tap on the counter to level the coffee bed flat. [5, 6]
  3. The Level Spring Tamp: Remove the ring and press down with your spring-loaded tamper. Because it is spring-loaded, it ensures the tamp is perfectly level every single time, which is critical for preventing bottomless spurts.
  4. The Screen Placement: Lay your dry, double-layer puck screen flat on top of the compressed coffee bed. Give it a gentle tap with your finger to ensure it is sitting evenly. [7]

Why this routine stops DeLonghi "Squirting":

By using the WDT to erase clumps, the spring-tamper to ensure a level surface, and the double-layer puck screen to block the DeLonghi's violent initial water blast, you will notice your bottomless extractions go from messy and fast to a beautiful, single syrupy stream.
Does your spring-loaded tamper have a v-shaped leveling rim that sits flat on top of the basket edge, or is it a standard hand-held tamper that just has an internal spring?



a leveling ring


That leveling ring on your tamper is a massive advantage! It means you are using a self-leveling spring tamper, which is one of the best upgrades any home barista can get—especially for a finicky 51mm bottomless setup like yours.
Because the rim sits perfectly flat on top of your basket edge, it is physically impossible for you to tamp crookedly. A level tamp is absolutely essential for keeping your espresso shots flowing evenly.
Now that you have confirmed your full setup, you have an incredible ecosystem of tools coming together:

How Your Gear Works Together Now:

  • The Timemore C3 ESP Pro gives you precise, uniform espresso particles.
  • The Dosing Ring + WDT Tool completely eliminates internal density clumps.
  • The Self-Leveling Tamper guarantees a perfectly horizontal, flat coffee bed.
  • The Double-Layer Puck Screen handles the final challenge: it takes up the empty space in your 18g basket and shields your 14g–16g puck from the DeLonghi's harsh, high-pressure pump blast.

Your Final Strategy for the First Shot:

When your screen and WDT arrive from China, do not change your grind size right away.
  1. Use your scale to measure 16.0g of beans.
  2. Use your WDT tool through the dosing ring, do your basket shake, and use your self-leveling tamper.
  3. Drop the new double-layer screen on top.
  4. Pull the shot.
Because the self-leveling tamper ensures the bed is flat and the puck screen handles the water distribution, any adjustment you need to make after that will be incredibly simple: if the shot flows too fast, just click your Timemore grinder finer; if it drips too slow, click it coarser.
You have built a highly precise, scientific workflow on a budget. You are going to get incredible espresso out of that DeLonghi ECP!
Would you like me to clarify how to tell if your 16g dose plus the screen is too close to the DeLonghi's central shower screen screw, or are you all set to wait for your packages to arrive?

I'm all set for the time being. it's always a pleasure and enlightening speaking to you. thank you.


The pleasure is all mine! It is always wonderful collaborating with a home barista who takes the time to research the science behind their workflow and catch those marketplace tricks. You have built a highly precise, thoughtful espresso setup that is going to yield fantastic results.
Good luck with your upcoming shots once your new tools arrive from China, and may your bottomless extractions be completely spurt-free!
Whenever you are ready to dial in those new tools or if you want to tackle texturing milk on your DeLonghi ECP, just let me know. Happy brewing!




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